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hangboarding for that endurancey stuff

I get pumped when I climb routes. So. I’m going to try this enduro-hangboarding thing on my beastmaker for a while. Take 1: hangboard schedules This was harder than I expected. Which I expected. I’m...

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Superboard Sunday

Since the Superbowl is lame I got some hangboarding in yesterday. This was my second go at a 9-minute set and it felt way less pumpy than the first. I did tweak the intervals a bit, increasing both...

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stupid people don’t deserve to be strong

Yesterday’s hangboard session went down before I bounced over to the Shed for some proper fitness. I had intended to use the few minutes planned for hangs as a warm up. Instead I printed an 18-minute...

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Yeah fun last night on your property my animal though we’re trying to reach HI.

If you want to make getting phone calls not suck get Google Voice and enable the Voicemail Transcripts feature. It’s priceless. It’s like discovering an exotic island, teaching the natives to speak...

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From Thursday With Love

It’s Monday but this hangboard set is from Thursday. It was a bit scary. Being my third consecutive day of hangboard sets, plus climbing, my fingers were feeling breakable. Note to self: warm up better...

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this would be easier with Tony

Yesterday’s hangboard session was good stuff. Finally my plan is coming together. Small holds felt small. Big holds felt pumpy. I’m getting a practical sense for how to combine varying durations and...

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in a word: long

I went for the 40-minute set yesterday. It was long. It was more than I care to do again. Music helped. My skin started to fall apart causing me to miss an early set taping a tear on my right ring...

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welcome to Hurtsville, population: me

It was about last Thursday that I said I would not do another 40-minute hangboard routine. That sentiment lasted until yesterday when I conceived of a 40-minute routine that would be harder. So, It...

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this porridge is too hot

This porridge pumped the fugg out of me: hangs_20110224_1.xlsx. Massive failure occurred around the halfway point. This porridge was just right: hangs_20110224_2.xlsx crankenstein.com

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because more difficult is more awesome

Keeping with this crankenstein.com theme I’m trying out a new method of video delivery – an inappropriately complex and compulsively robust technique that’s fully rad. Behold: vid here me on Better...

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injuring things I didn’t know I had

Apparently I have a thing called a sternoclavicular joint. And it’s pissed. update: It’s much better now.

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if the Good Lord didn’t want me to manufacture routes he wouldn’t have...

It comes with its own brief case.

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Tuesday at Rattlesnake Canyon

I met up with Bernd and Andy for a toss on Andy’s Trebuchet after work on Tuesday. It was good stuff.        

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Hawai’i – still rad

I was on Oahu and Maui for ~1 week.

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Gala Gala Happy

I sent Gala Gala Happy last weekend at our inaugural Owltoberfest.

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Phil vs. Rubble

Phil has become the second human in history to send Rubble.

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ORG – November 2013

‘Sex’ follows the bulging wall leaning in from the right. My intention for a 3-day climbing trip to Owens River Gorge was to flash 5.12′s. That didn’t happen. After an epic battle on a 12b to turn what...

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No and Then

Inspired by one of my generation’s iconic celluloid gems this post’s title is appropriate as I tried to parlay my send of Gala Gala Happy into Strictly Ballroom. But there has bees no and then....

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fairy princess skin

Skin has been an issue this season. I believe a fairy princess switched skin with me while I was sleeping. Alternatively, I could be convinced a diabolical pediatric surgeon grafted fresh foreskin onto...

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infinitesimal progress

One little pull… …and we got a bleeder. Strictly Ballroom got a little closer to becoming a finished project after Saturday’s session at Owl Tor. I hit the mono move off the dog (I love saying that),...

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